Penguins, Potato Salad, and Pedal Power

Despite a rough night thanks to my goat milk adventure, I woke up determined to make the most of day three. Another delicious breakfast sandwich fueled me up, and my rented e-bike arrived, ready for adventure. I cautiously navigated the steep hill down to Dunedin, keeping my speed below 30 km/h – the incline was just too intimidating!

My first stop was Crazy Horse Tattoo, where I'd scheduled a consultation for a travel souvenir tattoo. The artist was a character, but clearly talented. I froze when he asked what I wanted, realizing I hadn't fully solidified my design. He gave me “homework,” asking me to bring in examples of styles I liked that weren’t his own.

Across the street, I found "The Perc," a cafe recommended by Crazy Horse, offering gluten-free options. I ordered a small coffee (which was refreshingly small compared to North American sizes) and a curious-looking potato salad. Intrigued, I took my order outside. The potato salad was a revelation! It was made with roasted potatoes (skins on!), whole gherkins, large pieces of bacon, and sliced onions. A chunky, flavorful masterpiece that I'm now determined to recreate at home.

After lunch, I explored Dunedin on my e-bike before heading to the OPERA (Otago Peninsula Eco Restoration Alliance) center for a wildlife tour. The 23-kilometer ride with the electric assist was a breeze. At the OPERA center, I joined a tour focused on the rehabilitation of the endangered hoiho, or yellow-eyed penguin. We spotted two molting penguins nestled in the bush, their preferred nesting habitat, unlike the rock-dwelling penguins most people picture.

Continuing to the beach, we saw New Zealand fur seals, albatrosses, and other native birds. As dusk approached, we spotted three yellow-eyed penguins on the rocks. Our guide explained that these individuals seemed to be lost, as they didn't typically reside on that part of the peninsula.

The highlight of the tour was the rehabilitation center, where I saw penguins within ten feet of me. The work being done to protect these incredible creatures moved me to tears. The story of how the penguins were rediscovered on the peninsula was truly inspiring. It solidified my desire to return and volunteer to help with the reforestation and penguin population regeneration efforts.

After the tour, I purchased some items from the gift shop, knowing the proceeds would support the penguin conservation efforts. Then, I hopped back on my e-bike for the 30-kilometer ride back to Dunedin. The scenery was breathtaking, and I soaked in the beauty and the unique connection I felt to the land.

By the time I reached the city, it was dark, and I needed to grab a few groceries. The 7-kilometer uphill ride back to my B&B was a challenge. The e-bike, while helpful, was still heavy, and I ended up pushing it up the final stretch of the driveway. But I made it! The rainwater shower was pure bliss, and I slept like a log. It was one of the most rewarding and exhausting days of my adventure.